The Gateway to Snowdonia

It’s no mystery that Betws-Y-Coed is dubbed "the gateway into Snowdonia". Upon arriving you’re welcomed by forest-clad mountains of such grandeur that it’s not unreasonable to draw parallels with the Canadian Rockies. After all, the forests here are composed largely of the mighty Douglas Firs - native throughout British Columbia but only introduced to this neck of the woods some decades ago.

Betws: A true mountain town

Before venturing into town, though, the magical Fairy Glen is a must-visit. Located just a short walk from Beaver Bridge, this secluded gorge that cuts into the earth isn’t well signposted, nor is it easy to descend into once you’ve crossed the Tolkien-esque farmland above. The path is treacherous; a near-vertical slide of rock, mud and slate. At the bottom, should you be lucky enough for the sun to defiantly creep in, as you look upstream, the moss-choked cliff walls appear fluorescent and the river shimmers like a bed of diamonds. Never mind the “gateway into Snowdonia” - here, I feel like I’m standing before the gateway into another world.   

Fairy Glen

The town itself boasts a collection of quirky gift shops, old cafes and traditional pubs, as well as an almost-miniature train station that gives the impression you’ve just stepped into a Harry Potter film. But for me its real charm is that, no matter where I’m standing, I can absorb the enormity of the mountains that encompass the town, as well as the enchanting qualities of Gwydir Forest that resides above it.

Gwydir Forest

Then there’s Betws-Y-Coed’s iconic Swallow Falls, not an hour’s walk up along the A5, which is perhaps at its most alluring during autumn when the near-skeletal trees make way for the sunlight. As you descend to the lowest viewing platform you’re immersed deep in the canyon above the turbulent river. No matter how often I visit I always marvel at this natural wonder of unrestrained energy; its endlessness is both belittling and inspiring.

Swallow Falls

It’s strange that I find one of Snowdonia’s busiest places the most tranquil. Perhaps it’s that I tend to visit during the colder months. Or maybe it’s part of Betws-Y-Coed’s enchantment, because whether I’m hiking up through the rich forests of Gwydir or standing in the deep mystical gorge of Fairy Glen - no matter the season - I may as well be a hundred miles away from anyone or anything.

Tips

Betws-Y-Coed is home to plenty of campsites, including that of the idyllic Swallow Falls Hotel. Camping isn’t the most desirable option in colder months, though, so there’s also the warmer option of the hotel rooms whose backs rests against the foothills that rise dramatically into Gwydir Forest. Find out more at swallowfallshotel.co.uk.

Gwydir Forest is accessible from the Forest Park entrance just a ten-minute walk up the road from Swallow Falls. You can enjoy moderate woodland trails to lengthy uphill hikes through forest and open fields, which are rewarded with panoramic views of the Glyderau, Carneddau and Snowdon mountain ranges. Find out more at www.snowdoniaguide.com.