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Friday, 23 June 2017

The Curious Rockies


Vancouver

After a few days in the hugely undesirable city of Seattle, Vancouver came as a breath of fresh air. Sure it’s a city like most others, but the real difference is it’s in Canada. There might only be a marginal difference in terms of friendliness between Americans and Canadians, with the latter being the friendlier, but such a small detail makes all the difference.

The seaport city is south of The Rockies (where we would be heading on a Contiki tour four days later). After settling in, our first excursion saw us visit the infamous and must-see Stanley Park – Vancouver’s answer to Central Park though some six-hundred acres plus in size. There we visited the Stanley Park Aquarium where we were impressed by a performing dolphin and a “false killer whale” and where we finally, after some disappointment during an excursion in Hawaii, met an enormous turtle. This was of course on the other side of the glass though, but it was as up-close-and-personal as we would ever get. Unfortunately, the glass also got in the way of me offering it some pizza, but never mind.

A view of the city from Stanley Park

Stanley Park Aquarium

Hero in a half-shell

We also skirted along a beautiful lake known as the Lost Lagoon, but this is really just a thousandth of what Stanley Park has on offer. A staggering thousand acres in size, it boasts a seawall with views of the harbour, as well as its own temperate rainforest, miniature train network, First Nations-made totem poles, several miles of greenery, hiking trails and plenty more.

After our week-long Rockies tour, we returned to Vancouver where we spent another few days exploring. Sadly though, due to torrential rains we never got to return to the park (nor were we able to visit Grouse Mountain) to further explore it through bike-hire but we did briefly pass through before finally leaving our tour bus. We got to see The Lions Gate Bridge which is often used in movies to double for San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge as it offers much better visibility. It was used in Rise of the Planet of the Apes when the apes battle the police on the bridge, as well as the first X-Men film in 2001 when Magneto tears the bridge away with his powers. More recently, scenes from the upcoming Apes sequel War for the Planet of the Apes (as were scenes from the second film Dawn) were also shot in the lower part of the city.

The easily-found Lost Lagoon

Lions Gate Bridge 

Stanley Park Totem Poles

We also passed a part of the temperate rainforest within the park where, I’m told, reshoot-scenes from Star Wars Episode VI: Return of the Jedi were filmed. These were the scenes shot on the Ewoks’ homeworld of Endor where, in the lush green forests, our heroes – along with those cuddly-but-deadly teddies – battled the Empire’s AT-ATs and Chicken Walkers.

Speaking of Endor though, we may as well have been on location (if the fictional moon actually existed, that is) when we made our final Vancouver-excursion to the Capilano Suspension Bridge. The rainforest here is understandably similar to that of Stanley Park, but not only that, just look at the network of boardwalks that take you high up into the trees just under the canopy as well as the nauseatingly-wobbly suspension bridge itself. It could easily be the home of the Ewoks. Except sadly we spotted no bears here – even the ones who aren’t anthropomorphic with forged weapons. We did see plenty of wild bears in The Rockies though, so I’ll take you on a brief journey through the epic mountain range via the only true time travel that is blogging.

Capilano Suspension Bridge Rainforest

No Ewok sightings today

Much less stable than it appears

Whistler

Whistler was our first stop, though not actually in The Rockies. Nevertheless, this adventure-based mountain resort offers incredible sights of the snow-sloped mountains that surround it. Here you can ski, do extreme mountain biking (so extreme that on average one person a year is killed coming down…), or take a gondola to the top where you can take yet another gondola that has a free-wire that runs the length of 4km between both its peaks. Or you can just take it easy like we did and hike around the Lost Lake. As safe as hiking through bear-infested forests can be, of course. The Lost Lake is stunning, as are the deep forests that surround it. Why it’s called Lost Lake though I’m not so sure, and the same goes for the Lost Lagoon in Vancouver’s Stanley Park (they’re actually pretty easy to find).

Bear country

The not so well-hidden Lost Lake

Whistler

Jasper

Like Whistler, Jasper is a small mountain resort, albeit far more modest in terms of activities. There are plenty of wildlife excursions to do nearby though but the town itself is fairly small and the surrounding mountains not so immediate as they are in Whistler. We also did a hike here though, catching breathtaking views of the powerful falls and river as we did and of those beyond, of the valleys and the river as they twisted and turned out of sight and deep into The Rockies.

Jasper National Park

Countless waterfalls 

See any bears?

Kamloops

Unfortunately Kamloops was a very quick stopover. Or perhaps not so unfortunate as it was a tiny little town with apparently not much to do. There were some surrounding hills and quarries though, and as we arrived on the coach it was obvious that this was the town that doubled for Power Rangers 2017’s Angel Grove, as I instantly recognised the main street as the area where the Megazord and Goldar did battle in the film’s climax. We arrived late and headed straight out for an included meal with the group, but afterwards I made the effort to explore as much as possible and managed to get a few snaps of the area. Sadly I recovered no power coins.

Enter CGI Megazord and Goldar here

The real Angel Grove

Any power coins up there?

Banff

Easily the most gorgeous stay during our Rockies trip. The main town offers mesmerising views of its beastly snow-topped mountains, and it even snowed heavily during our stay there. In fact it snowed so much that we decided against going up on the gondola we had already paid for as the views were completely obscured. Instead we decided to go on a short hike into some nearby woods. Once inside, it was eerily quiet and we stood watching as the snow fell. Suddenly we were alarmed by the cracking of twigs nearby, and we hastily returned to the town (but not without interrupting a small wedding in a snowy clearing just outside the woods). Once in the safety of a local Starbucks, some internet-research confirmed my fears: wolves lurk in those very forests…

Wolves are lurking nearby

Morning after the snowfall

Minutes after the snowfall

The Rockies

As we made our way back down towards Vancouver, we stopped over in Vernon for the night. However there’s really nothing to say here other than the fact that we enjoyed a delicious meal at the big all-day breakfast chain Denny’s. And on that note, I haven’t yet mentioned just how well Denny’s and also Tim Hortons – all-day pastries and coffee - served us in Canada, and how they’ll be sorely missed (enter sad face here).

That doesn’t conclude our time in Canada though. Don’t forget – we explored the Rockies which involved countless hours of scenic journeys between stopovers. Alongside the roads we spotted several black bears, as well as a grizzly. Seeing these animals up close – from the safety of a coach of course – was pretty awesome. This is their natural habitat, and we’re lucky that they let us pass through without quarrel. There are several “bear rules” to follow in Canada of course, and while they’ve been known to attack or even kill humans, for the most part they are relatively harmless – provided those rules are adhered to. Sadly we didn’t see any elk, beaver or moose, though I’m not so sorry we didn’t see any wolves after the Banff incident…

Grizzly Bear

Black Bear

Yogi's cousin, I think

And to end on a high, we stopped at the incredible and otherworldly Athabasca Glacier. The glacier, a quarter kilometre thick, is one of six “toes” within the Columbia Icefield, located partly in the northwestern tip of Banff National Park and partly in the southern tip of Jasper National Park. To get up onto the glacier, we had to take a terrain-appropriate glacier truck – awesomely one of only twenty-three on the planet. Once we exited, the cold tore at our skin like razor-sharp claws. The landscape was white, barren and rocky and the frozen ground beneath our feet a strange, almost ethereal sky blue; like I was standing on an alien world. Before jumping back on the ice-friendly monster truck, we filled our bottles at a stream of volcanic water. It was the most refreshing, most crisp water I’ve ever tasted.

Athabasca Glacier

Ice Monster
  
Views from the top

Unlike New Zealand, Canada’s natural landscape holds distinction; a somewhat wintry appearance no matter the season. In fact, its countryside is perhaps the richest I've seen; rolling hills of dense and seemingly endless woodland, rivers broad and fast-flowing, countless waterfalls both fierce and majestic, and distant peaks rising suddenly while wisps of flog and cloud cling to them like cotton. The land is also visibly thriving with a diverse and robust ecosystem of black bear and grizzly, moose, deer, elk, wolves, caribou, beavers, horned sheep and mountain goats, which only further enriches this landscape of indisputable and unbeatable striking beauty. 

In closing, here are some more pictures for you to enjoy…





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